As it is signified by the juxtaposition of these two Darija words, both etymologically Arabic, this room was dedicated exclusively to guests. The wide and diversified range of local cultures in Morocco made « Beyt Diaf »polyonymous due to our different linguistic environments. In some rural parts of Morocco, it is called Masriya, another Darija word that might originate from the Amazigh term Tamsrite. The latter was usually an upstairs suite, towering over the downstairs rest of the house. These are merely a few examples, by far non-exhaustive.
“Beyt Diaf” was always neater than the rest of the house and had the best furniture and tapestry. It was also forbidden for children to step foot in it without the consent of the elders. In their absence, they could vengefully transform it into a playground. And when visitors came, a particular code of conduct made them bound to a discipline more mandatory than usual. If that code was to be infringed, sanctions were tougher correspondingly. That does not mean that the other parts of the house were untidy, but in the mind of the housewife, they were unfit to receive guests. The members of the family could live with it anyhow.
Morocco nowadays, hosting the AFCON 2025 and in the midst of frenetic preparations prior to the 2030 World Cup, looks somehow like “Beyt Diaf.” The metropoles hosting the games are cleaner, both than before and than other “less conspicuous” cities, although some, like the capital Rabat, had long ago set themselves apart as far as tidiness is concerned. They also have new car parks, shining road markings, and more greenery after parks and green areas sprouted up all over, as they would do before royal visits or international events. As an example among many, the usually polluted buildings bordering the most important boulevards in Casablanca are all now bleached sparking white. Youth crime, a plague in some suburbs, sometimes metastasizing to luckier neighbourhoods, is no longer an issue. But the list of countless benefits does unfortunately not include the uncivility and ill-mannerisms our roads are most famous for.
Until now, visitors, mainly football aficionados from all over Africa, are visibly stunned at how shining these cities are. Most of them would probably not be interested in “the rest of the house,” as the CAN activity evolves around four coastal cities (Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca,and Agadir) and two in the hinterland (Fez and Marrakesh). The former four epitomize the historical shift of metropolitan centrality from the inlands to the coast that occurred before the twentieth century. On the other hand, the latter two are historical capitals that tourism and exoticism saved from oblivion.
In the news, “the rest of the house” was having no appeal until extraordinary weather conditions flooded the coastal city of Safi and a few more, and wrapped the heights of the mighty Atlas with a thick white cloak. From time to time, reports about Moroccans living a normal life, like a random shepherd leading his herd through the snow, would erupt, only to be inundated by the tsunami of football coverage. One particular story has disappeared completely, the one concerning the population of the High Atlas, namely where a 6.8 earthquake struck two years ago. Large numbers of mountaineers are still living in marquees, plagued by what most Moroccans consider unleashed mercy from the skies. Waiting for Godot!
It is a cultural thing, and a healthy one, I concede, to be willing to provide the best for the guests. And it is genuinely what distinguishes Moroccans from the rest of the world. But it would be healthier if all the rooms of the house had the same level of equipment and furniture and the same tidiness, and if all the members of the family could afford having access to them. Isn’t there something deeply wrong when the youngsters have to wait for visitors to taste the best cookies?
It also seems that the hosts are only worried about what the guests would think of the house. And it is also a cultural thing, rooted in our social psychology, of denying the existence of flaws and highlighting our successes. Our desperate need for validation -praise Morocco in front of Moroccans and you will see it- and the politicians’ golden rule of “turning negative values to zero” do probably explain why “Beyt Diaf” syndrome will remain irremediable in our country.
Written in English by Hicham Aït Almouh
